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The Garden Plot for September 28, 2007
3:55 PM - 4:00 PM
[Program Website]
Today's Highlight: “Winterizing the Garden”
Somewhere there is a place where winter temperatures don’t plummet to -25 F one month, then soar to 50 F the next. Somewhere there is a place where the ground doesn’t freeze, while the sun shines brightly enough for plants to lose water by transpiration. Unfortunately, we don’t live in that place. So, we need to help our plants “winterize”, or slowly prepare for cold weather
Prepare plants for winter by slowly decreasing irrigation. Plants should not be stressed, but if you’re watering every week, move to every 10-14 days.
Plants that ARE hardy to Zones 3 and 4 can have irrigation again AFTER their leaves have changed color and dropped. Fall irrigation, and an application of PHOSPHORUS-only fertilizer, can encourage a beneficial flush of root growth on woody perennials in Missoula.
Harden off less-hardy plants (Zone 5) more carefully. Be careful NOT to keep plants growing by watering, fertilizing with nitrogen, or by heavy pruning.
Water landscape plants, especially evergreens, one last time during late fall --- after deciduous leaf drop when plants are dormant and before the ground freezes.
STOP PRUNING! UNLESS YOU ARE PRUNING OUT DISEASED BRANCHES, DO NOT PRUNE PLANTS UNTIL THEY HAVE GONE DORMANT. Plants are dormant when their leaves change color and more than 75% of them have dropped. You can prune evergreens when deciduous plants lose their leaves.
Protect evergreen plants and roses (esp. climbing roses) from winter wind and bright sunlight with shading, or spray anti-transpirants such as Wiltpruf or Vapor Guard.
Put containerized plants on their sides in a protected area where temperatures will remain constant; bury containers in sawdust or ground bark. If plants are to over winter indoors, treat any pest problems before bringing inside!
Protect the trunks of recently transplanted young trees with light-colored wrapping or white latex paint. This helps decrease bark splitting on cold nights following bright, sunny winter days during which young trees soak up the rays and forget it’s winter.
Mulch plants after the first hard frost with compost (up to 2 inches deep), or mulch with straw, hay, composted leaves, or non-diseased brush trimmings. Mulching is especially important for strawberries and roses. Cover roses up to 1 inch above the bud graft union with soil, then add 2 feet of loose mulch, such as pine needles.
Mow the lawn short (approximately 1”) one last time after the first hard freeze. This will help to avoid a fungus disease called “Snow Mold” if we have a snowy winter.
Apply a light application of compost to lawns (1/2 inch to 1 inch deep) after the last mowing of the season.
For more information on how to help plants cope with winter, call your local extension agent
Helen Atthowe's new short program of gardening tips
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